We made it!

After a painless but long flight to Toronto and getting lost several times in that huge Airport we connected to our flight to Bogata with 6 hours wait. We had connected with our niece Julie and our cousin Karl who live in Toronto and they came out to the airport and we had a pleasant visit with them.

Our arrival in Bogata was something else. Masses of people with baggage in lines everywhere and it was a bit frightening as there were armed guards at every corner. I had made the reservation long before the bomber scare and higher security checks so we only had two hours to change planes. A very helpful airport staff quickly saw our problem and got me into a wheelchair and off we went at full speed to our connection. She got us through security very quickly but of no avail as boarding had closed. There was still 3/4 of an hour to takeoff but there was no arguing, it was closed. Part of the problem was that our baggage had not been sent on to Quito and we had to claim it and clear customs and then board.

The lady put us in touch with a hotel connection and they had a shuttle to town which seemed a bit like Saratoga Raceway. However, we made it with a few near collisions. Everyone drives at high speeds leaning on the horn and crossing lanes every 100 m.

The hotel was great but we couldn't enjoy breakfast as we were told we had to be at the airport
3 hours ahead which meant taking the 5:00AM shuttle. As it turned out we could have easily taken the 6;00 shuttle as we waited for hours for check in. The flight they put us on was via Panama, however it was very nice and they fed us on the way.

We were helped at every turn by wonderful airport staff. Someone would appear with a wheelchair and load Bruce into it and take us to the next line or gate. The same person stayed with us until we boarded. Sometimes our lack of Spanish was a problem but we managed to make ourselves understood enough - usually by handing them our ticket!

Arrived in Quito and checked into our Hostel, The Travellers Inn which was very basic but friendly. Run by a family and the two sons both speak English very well. One of the sons took us on a 4 hour tour of Quito which was very interesting. A lot of walking for me and I was quite exhausted by the end. However, a nap and a grande cerveza cured me!

The highlight of the tour was certainly the native village on the equator and watching the water going down the drain about 6 ft on each side. Mary tried to walk the equator line without success - no one does it.

We learned how to shrink heads too but probably won't.

We headed for Otavalo and met up with our good friends Jim and Lorraine Peloquin, owners of All Seasons Roost B&B in Courtenay. They had been around town for a few days and sugested we go to the 'small market' on Friday as the Saturday main market is really crowded. This market was certainly not small and by any standard it was big - acres and acres. Fantastic stuff and really good prices and of course, there is lots of bargaining. I bought a beautiful alpaca sweater for $10. Mary bought a few goodies as well and we had to resist lots of things as our luggage is already overweight. I think we might be discaring a few extra clothes or buying another bag for purchases as we only have one bag at present. Steaming hot lunch

We had a great afternoon yesterday and took a taxi to Cotacachi - about 20 miles for $4.00. It is a neat little town and is the leather capital of Ecuador. The leather work in the market is outstanding at unbelievable prices. Beauiful jackets for $40.00, wallets, $10.00, suitcases, $90.00. We resisted pretty well! We saw a very small boy dancing to a family band.

We stayed the last two nights at a Hostel with Jim and Lorrine. It is a very nice place run by an American who is married to an Ecuadorian from the Otavalo area. We got up this AM to find out that the night clerk had some friends over last night and after a lot of drinking there was a fight and the clerk was killed! The place was overrun by police this morning but they have no leads yet. A good time to leave!

We are now in Ibarra where Mary has an appointment to see the dentist who was recommended to us. We have upgraded to the Hosteria Chorlavi which is more like a hotel but on 10-20 cres and unbelievale vegetation. 8 ft Yucca plants with the stem 30 ft A beautiful room with all the comforts for $50.00 including breakfast.

The country is full of churches. The big cathedral in Quito took over 100 years to build and is still not finished. It was opened by the Pope a few years ago. It is built on the site of a temple to the moon that the aboriginals worshiped in and from there a straight road leads to the statue of the Virgin of Quito which was erected on the site of a temple to the sun. What a way to erase all traces of paganism. One nice thing is that after a road accident crosses are erected on the site and a blue heart painted on the road, we noticed our taxi driver crossing himself as we drove by - we crossed ourselves too but that was from fear. Taxis drive mostly on their horn, drive within 3 or 4 feet of the car ahead and ignore most signs and regultions - this is in spite of police everywhere.

We have had trouble getting travellors checks cashed so we tried cash machines - mostly in Spanishalthough we have found one English one. Banks are very safe - there's an armed guard at the door as well as inside - they look pretty friendly but serious.

We must work on our Spanish. Jim and I went to the animal market on Otavalo and had to crow like chickens to tell the taxi driver where we wanted to go. He didn't understand crowing but he did get "oink, oink" 'porquo' he shouted 'pig' we yelled and we were friends. As you can imagine the market was awful - thin, mangy cows, terrified chickens, unhealthy puppies, guinea pigs, fighting cocks and screaming pigs. We almost brought home some piglets but Bruce said 'no, we're already overweight!'